Both methods of storage honey supers are used by beekeepers around the world, and both have their advantages. The best choice often depends on yer beekeeping style, the number of colonies ya manage and the storage space available to you.

Wet storage means putting away the frames with small amounts of honey still remaining in the cells after extraction.

Many beekeepers either allow the bees to clean the frames before storage or store ’em with a small amount of residual honey left behind. The main advantage is that it’s fast and requires relatively little work immediately after harvest.

There are, however, a few things to keep in mind. Honey residues can attract bees from neighboring colonies and, in some situations, may contribute to robbin’ behavior. If the frames are stored in damp conditions, there can also be an increased risk of fermentation or pest issues.

With dry storage, the beekeeper makes sure the frames are thoroughly cleaned before putting ’em away.

Many beekeepers feel this provides better control during long term storage because the risk of fermentation is lower and the frames are less attractive to various pests. The downside is that it requires more work after the harvest. Cleaning, sorting and storin’ equipment takes time, especially if you’re managing a large number of colonies.

Like many aspects of beekeepin’, there isn’t one universal answer.

The choice often depends on:

How humid yer storage area is
How long the frames will be stored
How many colonies ya manage
The level of pest pressure in your area
Which routines work best for your beekeeping operation

Over time, most beekeepers develop a system that fits their experience, goals and local conditions.

Regardless of which method you choose, frames should be protected from moisture, mice and wax moths during storage.

For many beekeepers, wax moth damage becomes a bigger concern than the choice between wet and dry storage itself. It’s also a good idea to label boxes and equipment so ya know where frames came from and how they’ve been handled.

When most people think about beekeepin’, they picture blooming flowers, busy bees and jars of golden honey.

In reality, a large part of the work happens after the harvest.

Storin’ frames, organizing equipment and preparing for the next season are tasks that rarely make it into photographs – yet they have a tremendous impact on how smoothly the following year unfolds.

Please note: This isn’t intended as a universal recommendation for all beekeepers. It’s simply a description of the routines that work in my own apiary. Every beekeepin’ operation has its own conditions, including climate, disease pressure, colony strength and management practices. As a beekeeper, it’s yer responsibility to determine what works best for your bees and to follow the recommendations that apply in your area.

Over the years, I’ve developed a system that works well for my three colonies.

After the honey harvest, I take the opportunity to inspect my frames and evaluate their condition. Frames that are poorly drawn out or beginning to show their age are often removed from service, allowing me to gradually renew my comb over time.

Freshly extracted frames that still contain small amounts of honey are often returned directly to the bees. They usually clean up the remaining honey quickly and leave the cells in excellent condition. For me, this approach has worked well and reduces the amount of post harvest work.

I also freeze some frames before late season honey is stored in ’em. These frames are kept in reserve and may be returned to the colonies in spring when brood rearing begins to increase. In my experience, natural honey can provide valuable support during the buildup period.

That said, this approach requires a good understandin’ of colony development, weather conditions and food reserves. For that reason, I wouldn’t recommend it as a starting point for an inexperienced beekeeper.

Frames that aren’t immediately reused are stored in sealed plastic bags in the barn until they’re needed again. Because I manage only a handful of colonies, I tend to work quite flexibly and regularly move frames between stronger and weaker hives throughout the season. As a result, I don’t label frames by individual colonies in the same way that many larger operations do.

Like so many things in beekeepin’, there is rarely just one correct way to do things. Most beekeepers eventually develop their own routines based on their bees, their goals and the conditions in their apiary.

How do you store your honey frames?

Do you prefer wet storage or dry storage, and what lessons have you learned over the years?

I’d love to hear about your projects, successes, and challenges in the comments below. By sharin’ knowledge and experience, we can encourage one another to try new things, continue learning and build a more sustainable and rewarding beekeeping journey.

Fredrik 🍯